Turtuk Village


This post is not about Rajasthan.


It is about the most remote and the most picturesque village I have been to.

Turtuk at the northern most tip of our country. 

The valley which was once a part of the silk route, lies in the shadow of the mighty K2 and the formidable Siachen. 



It is flanked on one side by the jeweled waters of the River Shyok, which originates in China, crosses India and flows into Pakistan.



The pristine beauty

The stairway to this unique village.

The cafe which offers the traditional with the continental has this helpful map for visitors.

This is a family trying to preserve their heritage by turning their home into a museum.


This village is known for its unique natural freezers- Tiny basement closets dug into barren earth and sealed with stones-used to preserve food for a long time. 

And no, this part of the valley is not as cold as some other parts of Ladakh where you can freeze naturally, just standing in the open.



And then there are kids like all other kids, indifferent to the amazing views, sulking after their mom yelled at them.



It is blessed by nature-and cursed by its geography too.




It was occupied by Pakistan in 1947 and claimed by India in 1971.

Both times, families were split forever. Parents on one side and children and grandchildren on both sides. 

I heard the poignant story of a girl who had come to her parent’s house for giving birth to her first child. Her husband was in the Pakistani Army. They never met again. For years they tried keeping in touch through letters and then she got her divorce in a letter. Even now, Internet and mobile signals are a luxury (even before the lockdown) so those who were lost, have given up hope of meeting.


The army takes over after a point. But a young boy who had hitched a ride with us claimed he and his friend had once managed to sneak in closer to the border-Wahan se Pakistan ka gaon dikhta hai. Hamare gaon jaise he lagta hai.







There are things like this school which continues with the same intentions that give us hope for the future.


While the kids are just glad school is over for the day.



Comments

  1. Beautiful, and heart-breaking, at the same time. :(

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  2. Yes, the place is amazing. There are stories of separation, but hopefully, one day we'll have a more inclusive world.

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